Q: Greetings. I wasn't sure whether to send this to sales or tech support, so I included both. I have an old metal cabinet with two doors that swing out and stay closed with latches. They are spring-loaded, and you push the doors closed so that part of the latch grabs under one of the shelves. On one of the latches the spring mechanism is gone, so I can't close that door, so I want to replace the latch. But I can't figure out what would be the proper replacement. I've attached pictures. You've helped me before on finding the correct bronze weatherstripping I needed, so I hope you can help again. The long size is about 1.6", the short side about 1.0", the short side sticks out about 1-1/4", and the metal is about 0.04" thick. Thank you! Paul
A: I have reviewed the photos of your latch and can say I have never seen that exact latch as your metal cabinet is likely decades old - although it looks very sturdy and have been quite well made.
While the latch replacement I suggest will very certainly work, as seen here:
Click Here
It would require new / additional holes drill through the cabinet door.
Is there a follow up question that we can perhaps attempt to answer? We take deep pride in our technical expertise, as we know it separates us from our competition, so don't hesitate to ask.
Please reply to this email or contact our sales department here:
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if we can assist you by answering further questions or with entering this order and please let us know if there is anything else we can help with.
Q: Do you use the metal plate and attach it to the stop (without the CL-12 body attached) OR on top of the CL-12 body attached to the stop?
A: The metal template is used on top on the latch body as detailed in the installation instructions as seen here:
Click Here
and is used to mark the location of the strike plate that is then to be mounted to the inside face of the door.
Is there a follow up question that we can perhaps attempt to answer? We take deep pride in our technical expertise, as we know it separates us from our competition, so don't hesitate to ask.
Please reply to this email or contact our sales department here:
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if we can assist you by answering further questions or with entering this order and please let us know if there is anything else we can help with.
Q: ves CL12 invisible latch. Im confused about the 3/16" gap instruction. the directions say 3/16" between the door and the stop but your youtube video says 3/16" between the door and the latch box. Do you mean to set the latch box back 3/16" from the face of the stop. There is no other way to allow that gap because the door always closes to the stop. Thats why its called a stop. I dont understand why the instructions say between the door and the stop. it should say between the door and the latch body. Help!
A: I apologize for the confusion.
The 3/16” gap is between the face of the door and the edge of the stop.
Clarification to install instructions form the CL12 template:
View Image
1. Close the door so that there is a 3/16” gap between the face of the door, and the face of the stop. (Step A of the instructions)
2. With the metal template in place on the CL12, place it against the door as shown on the template/instructions making sure to maintain that 3/16” gap between door and stop. (Still step A of the instructions.)
When this is done it will show you where the CL12 should be positioned on the stop. Once screwed in place the spikes on the metal template can be pressed into the door to mark where the strike hook will go (step B of instructions)
You will notice the metal template overlaps the CL12 a little. When you follow the steps above, the CL12 will most likely not be even with the edge of the stop.
A video clarifying the dimensional requirements between the face of the door in the face of the stop has been created and provided at this link as seen here:
Click Here
Q: Hello I'm looking for a touch latch that will endure a daily commercial use in a restaurant. We’ve installed 4 tall 2’-0” x 10’-0” doors on Rixon 128-3/4 pivot hinges. These are basically feature doors with no knobs or any other latches or catches other than where we are able to attach a push latch at the very top edge of the doors which also act as a stop. I've watched the youtube video by Richard Howard and these latches seem to be what Im looking for. HOWEVER, he does say these latches are not intended for heavier doors and so Im asking if you offer any heavier alternatives to the Ives CL12.
A: While there may be a touch latch that will work on a door of this size, as I have seen it installed on 3/0 x 7/0 doors (21 square foot) and your 2/0 x 10/0 (20 square foot) would not present a greater weight, the issue you will have will be the mounting location. My guess is you are installing the touch latches at the top of the door as you have all 4 - doors installed as a running and set matched as an 8/0 x 10/0 opening therefore there are no jambs to attach hardware to. The problem with the mounting location of the hardware is the amount of flex in the door from the, say 44" AFF to CL of activation and the 119" AFF to cl of the point of activation.
I would reconsider the approach and contemplate installing micro electromagnetic locks on each door which will both act as a stop and a latch, a discretely located push button or switch to control the doors individually and then installing a concealed edge pull into each door which will make the hardware unlikely to detect when the doors are closed. You can consider door position switches in the header to control when the power is reapplied to the mag lock and even a timer set to say .5 second so there is no clanking. Also what would be elegant would be a micro switch mounted behind the concealed edge pull to as to elegantly allow power when the concealed edge pull is closed and cut the power to the magnetic lock when the edge pull is pulled open to operate the door.
Q: Hello Thanks for your detailed reply. Do you have a product to recommend for micro electromagnetic locks? I wasn't given much time to work on a solution and went ahead and installed the Ives CL12 latches. What I discovered was exactly what you addressed, the doors now flex too much in order to engage/disengage these latches. I've reviewed the specs on these latches and the CL12 heavy duty latches are rated at 27Lbs.to operated. Im considering the CL11 "normal" latch which only requires 13lbs. to operate. Though I think these will eventually fail because these doors exist in a commercial environment and therefore I'm beginning to think your suggestion of electronic latches will endure many door opening cycles. Thanks David O
A: A great magnetic lock (and even better manufacturer) is the SDC Excel E300 Micro Cabinet Lock as seen here:
Download File
I am convinced the Ives CL11:
Click Here
will not work as your application requires and think we should focus on the best, most elegant way to open the circuit to cut power to the mag lock.
Q: I am considering buying the large size for a full sized door to my utility closet. The door will be a full sized solid wood door and I have SOSS #216 invisible hinges for a 1 3/8" door. I do have an existing door frame already installed in this spot so the door close will need to move 3/16" as well in order to push the door in to release the latch. 1/ will the large latch work with my size door 2/Are the hinges I have appropriate? 3/Is it impossible to move the door close?
A: The CL12 as seen here:
Click Here
will work with a full size 1-3/8" thick door but would suggest you purchase the IVES CL14 Auxiliary Pusher as seen here:
Click Here
and the Soss hinge 216 as seen here:
Click Here
will not be a problem so long as your hinge stile is beveled.
Q: I have a door with this latch (along with an auxiliary pusher) that I cannot get to open. No matter how or where I push on the door, it will not open. Do you have any suggestions or tricks on how I can get it to open?
A: Is this a new installation?
Q: It was installed approximately one year ago. And had been used almost daily since. When trying to push open the door, it feels like there is no additional room to "push" - like it is somehow locked.
A: And the loss of that no additional room to "push" is why the unit will not operate. Only destructive bipass is the typical approach to getting the door open. I would suggest replaceing the unit with a far ore robust touch latch such as the Saint Louis Designs 20125LP-BLK Magnetic Push Latch - Black Anodized Aluminum as seen here:
Click Here