Q: Do you cut to exact size or do I have to trim, I’m not sure I understand the Comments on this. And do you have the name of a local installer in my area or can any carpenter handle the job. I know I’m taking a lot of your time, but I want to make sure I’m getting this right. The Pres. of my Co. is very picky about the floors were these are going. Thanks, Keith
A: You will want to order this material from the factory to the exact lengths needed as it will save you the time, trouble and potential for error when cutting in the field.
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Q: Hello: I am new to an auto door bottoms and have a question regarding a fiberglass residential door. This is a new door was installed in and old frame and the threshold is slanted hard in one direction about 1" to 1/4" compared to the door bottom which is level. Will an auto door bottom adjust for the slope or is this an installation issue? Thank you - Ed
A: Ed - the condition you describe if the precise application where an automatic door bottom performs flawlessly. I suggest this model:
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And hope you can take time to review the product review video here:
View Video
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Q: Hi Richard. I'm purchasing one of these 365AA units for my door, but the gap under my door is quite huge. I'm looking at about 1 3/4" between the bottom of the door and the floor... shoddy condo construction. My question is, can I mount this so that the aluminum portion hangs down into the gap so I can get it to where I'm looking at only a 3/8 - 1/2" drop for the plunger to come down? All of the pictures I can find show the aluminum housing mounted flush with the door bottom, but since there's only a max 1" drop and my gap is 1 3/4" that won't do me much good.?
A: Is the one and three quarter inch gap consistent through the opening cycle of the door? Meaning is with the door closed there is an 1-3/4" gap between the bottom of the door in the top of the sill and is this 1-3/4" gap consistent between the bottom of the door in the floor through the entire 0 through 90 degree opening cycle?
I would also like to mention that code compliance for fire rated doors, and certainly a door on a condo would be fire rated, assuming this is an interior entry door, specifies that the maximum distance from the bottom of the door to the top of a non-combustible surface is three-quarter inch . having said this, I would fully suggest, that you would investigate this matter further so that you do not knowingly live with a door that is not code compliant for fire resistance. Lack of having proper code compliance for fire rating is simply a life safety issue that you ought to be uncomfortable with.
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Q: rubber gasket keeps coming off
A: Assuming that you mean that the rubber gasket continues to creep out or slide out of the extrusion I would simply crimp using a set of pliers the aluminum holder so that the neoprene no longer slides out over time. You would certainly want to have the hardware removed from the door to proceed with this relatively delicate process.
Q: Do you install it before or after jamb weather stripping?
A: This is an age-old question. I would personally run the weather stripping long and that I would cut and install the automatic door bottom between the weather stripping (I would use a perimeter gasketing that had a substantial enough width so as to accommodate the plunger rod from the automatic door bottom) and then I would add a corner pad such as the National Guard Products 54CP Polypropylene Pile Corner Pad - 1-1/4" x 2" - Black Color - Self Adhesive
as seen here:
Click Here
to help seal the loss of continuity at the bottom of the jamb.
Q: Thank you for your review- there are a lot of automatic door bottoms- which one is the Best? I didn't like Pemko!
A: Which model number did you order and what didn't you like about the Pemko version?
Q: We are replacing a sliding door that has failed and are considering a Pivot Door. We are on the Florida Gulf coast where impact resistant hurricane doors are required. We are concerned about water infiltration in the pivot door product. Question 1): Have you tested your system for use in a hurricane zone (HVHZ) application? Question 2) : Can your automatic drop seal product be applied to an ANDERSEN Pivot Door Model APD-T with High Performance sill option. (Right side in-swing only) Question 3): Are the internal components of the automatic drop seal product made of stainless steel to prevent rusting in coastal environments?
Ive had two conversations with Pivot Door manufacturers, other than Andersen, who say Pivot Doors cannot be secured against water incursion . Some say they can only be used in an installation under an overhang. My installation does not have an overhang.
I don;t know whether this is a case where they havent addressed the coastal water incursion or what. Andersens water incursion PSI testing is the highest Im seen, by spec sheets.
It seems to me there must be a way to address the infrequent but realistically real exposure to high wind borne rain events. The automatic door seal product seemed promising when viewing the YOUTUBE video. Since the pivot door mechanism itself would seemingly preclude a bottom installed ADS, perhaps a model mounted on the exterior would work. The activating plunger mechanism would have to work from a brush closing similar to a ball door stop mounted on the top of closet doors, Id guess.
A: Question for you: do you have reason to believe the APD-T will not meet your water intrusion requirements?
While I can provide a heavy duty automatic door bottom designed for a center pivot door, it will lack the requirement of being completely non-ferrous and a Florida Listing number. While I would not dissuade you from considering it, as it would not prove detrimental, I would encourage you to consider a flood barrier such as the Flood Barrier Shields as seen here:
Click Here
I understand absolutely, this search is a difficult one and we do sell windstorm rated doors that include water intrusion for much higher values though they are not be appropriate for installation on the front of a home.
The only place that you would install an automatic door bottom would be on the exterior has this is where you want your line of defense to occur - I would add one to your installation but know that the choice of this very elegant door system while it will be rated for windstorm load doesnt give you the water intrusion rating that you would also like to have - in my experience living in southwest Florida I dont think an overhang is going to do a lot when youre kicking around 80 mile an hour winds in a complete downpour.
Think youve got to do your best and then at that point hope for the best.